阿原 2005-3-21 17:15
《梯田印象》下
《梯田印象》下<br>
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<br>再次来到桂林,入住在中国乒乓球队下榻的漓江大瀑布饭店,和队员们合影后,组委还安排翌日观看球队参加第48届世乒赛选拨赛决赛,但梯田的影子又在我脑海中晃动起来,在两者的权衡之间,我选择了龙脊。我在想,我还是想看到你,想看到那脑海中沉抹不去的梯田印象,想看到儿时里那童年的美好回忆,如果这次再看不到梯田,那只能说明我与龙脊无缘了。<br>
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<br>决定到车站乘车去金坑,巧合的是,由于平安壮寨在05年与旅游公司的旅游资源合作协议中要价100多万元,是04年度的十倍左右,因此旅游公司未能与平安壮寨达成协议,平安从3月份起不再允许旅游公司的车辆进寨,旅游公司只好开始鼓吹金坑,说金坑比平安如何如何的大,如何如何的好。反正搞旅游的,正反也好,黑白也好,总是一贯正确的了。<br>
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<br>瑶族分为好几个分支,有白瑶、红瑶、盘瑶等,金坑属于红瑶,民族服装是红色的,红瑶妇女的头发在一生中只剪两次,几乎每人的头发都超过1.4米,红瑶曾获基尼斯集体长发村之最。<br>&K6{S1Ku&H4Ed.Cg
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<br>从桂林乘长途车到龙脊路口,中途下得车来,在路口边的一长排小店里找了一家坐下来吃桂林米粉,这是我出行的常用方法,不着急问路,而是坐下来与饭店小老板攀谈,老板见有生意来自然高兴,问他什么都愿意回答,而且告诉你的都是些如何旅游并如何节省的办法。龙脊路口米粉店的老板娘也不例外,她告诉我到金坑进寨要50元的门票,边吃边聊着,一番讨论,小店老板开始帮我张罗着打电话给山上开旅店的老板,旅店老板答应住他那每晚20元,并顺路接我从上山的小寨路口绕行一个半小时经下步村去金坑(从金坑寨收费大门进寨上山也要1个小时),带路费10元,从后面的结果来看,整个过程近乎完美,这样的安排让我游兴大发。<br>
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<br>开店的刘老板正好在龙胜县城办事,顺路来接我,一起到了小寨路口,下得车来,开始向下步村进发,刘老板帮我背着登山包,我一路走一路拍照,一边和刘老板聊天。下步村是个不错的村子,梯田也开始展现在我的眼前,层层叠叠的,煞是漂亮。其实省去门票那是次要的,重要的是如果没有下步村这段徒步旅行,我想金坑瑶寨之行便少了些过程和乐趣。<br>
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<br>刘老板个不高,是个勤劳诚实的汉子,他并不是少数民族,只是他在山上租了红瑶的一幢房子,取名为大寨旅馆,旅馆有三层计20多间客房,一年的租金是1.8万。大寨旅馆基本座落在山上的最佳地段,一进房间打开窗,一层层至下而上错落有致的梯田便跃入眼中(大寨旅馆电:13978359868),满窗皆景皆可入镜。<br>Y
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<br>大寨旅馆里还住着一位来自法国的摄影师塞萨.布恩(音译),塞萨在法国出了几本摄影集,后来迷上了中国,他对阳朔倒没有太深的印象,去年9月来到金坑后,对金坑一见钟情,一呆就是半年。过年时塞萨把大批关于金坑梯田的照片带回法国后,又带着摄像机赶回中国录制关于介绍金坑的影片,虽然我只会说H-sorry-8-Y这样的英语三句半,但对大自然美的追求并不影响两人之间的沟通,好歹以前也玩过一段时间婚礼摄像,顺便为塞萨摄了一段他介绍金坑的镜头,也算是帮塞萨在国外宣传我们的金坑瑶寨出了一份力:)<br>X8CA4bB)DY
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