查看完整版本: 黄金周里千岛湖新安江之行

黄金周里千岛湖新安江之行

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3L$iu`5K'n 中午时分到达闽北小城浦城，吃完中饭十二点就又踏上开往浙江江山的浙江快客。当我走下汽车，站在廿八都镇外的公路上时，四顾茫然，压根就没看到传说中的古镇。沿着镇里的大街一直走到廿八都医院，看到了对面的古景楼宾馆，进去看了房间，挺满意，但开价70元谈不下来就作罢。<br>Z%r9|w`+a
反正时间尚早，不急着住宿，干脆背着包先逛逛老街。不多的游人散漫地踱着步在闲逛，一些老建筑如文昌阁等墙壁斑驳，门楣上的雕梁画栋诉说着昔日的辉煌。老街很短，寥寥无几的古建筑几乎淹没在新建筑中了。镇上许多人家就坐在家门前剥板栗，板栗壳和板栗堆积如山。文昌宫要收门票20元，也就没进去看了。走到老街尽头，水泥路面被颗颗鹅卵石所取代了，也许这就是仙霞古道的残遗吧。沿着鹅卵石道走出村外，立刻是一派田园风光，竹篱笆，野草花，鹧鸪飞，麻雀闹，微雨中的远山隐约如黛。本也安排了徒步仙霞古道，五十六年前解放福建的三十一军就是从仙霞古道入闽的，可台风龙王又追上来了，只好放弃。往回走时，几个衣着鲜艳、背包过顶的驴DD、驴MM步伐坚定地擦身而过，祝福他们，就烦请他们替偶走一走仙霞古道吧。<br>~{%^7DPh
小小的古街逛完了，觉得没必要按原计划在此住宿，我走到镇外的公路等车去江山，心中暗自庆幸，还好古景楼宾馆的要价让我不能接受，才没住下来呢。说实在话，廿八都给我的感觉相当一般，许是走过太多的古镇古村落了吧，真的有些审美疲劳了，再加之廿八都已不太具古镇风貌，也许那些偏好人文古迹的人会更喜欢这里的一百多个姓氏的由来和衍化吧。廿八都给我印象最深的反倒是成堆的板栗和板栗壳，板栗一斤才三元，便宜啊，可惜都是生的，只能干咽口水了。<br>9D0ZH%D8I]`
到江山后，马上转乘江山往衢州的5路公交赶往衢州，又是在黄昏中到达这个繁华的浙南小城。走出车站，问路边的JC应该坐几路车到汽车南站，两三个JC都很热情地帮着指点，衢州的JC真是人民的好JC喔。到了汽车南站，工作人员已下班了，就在南站边搞定住宿，六十元的大床房，刚装修过，很不错，总台的小妹也很PL。放下包马上坐车去闹区逛，看到超多美女，衢州真是好地方啊！第二天七点就离开衢州，只在衢州呆了很短的时间，但衢州的繁荣富庶和美女众多都给俺留下极深极好的印象（周迅就是衢州人喔），暗下决心，以后有机会一定要再来衢州。回到厦门后，向一位衢州朋友猛夸了一通衢州，把她美的，呵呵。<br>
~n wfJ'? 十月四日七点往淳安千岛湖，破旧的中巴是我们此行坐过最烂的汽车，车里甚至焊着两根镀锌水管聊充立柱扶手，真给俺们浙江人民丢脸。还好黄金周里管得严，车子没敢超载，破旧的车子于十一点将我们平安地送到了千岛湖边。淳安早已不是前几年的游记中的浙江边远小城了，千岛湖旅游让淳安产生了蜕变，不得不佩服旅游这个无烟工业的巨大效益。打车来到千岛湖旅游码头，很快就买到了十一点四十分往安徽深渡的船票。因为国际油价持续上涨，从8月12日起，船票从15元涨到22元。<br>
_v/lL^3rP6[0C[ 离开船还有些时间，就在码头对面找了家饭馆吃午饭，菜的量少，价钱却不少，如果不是时间关系，偶是肯定不会在车站码头附近吃东西的。吃完后，又在码头门口买了一斤半板栗，但明显是缺斤短两，唉，谁让咱又在这种地方买东西呢。上了船，人还不少，一楼船舱里坐满了，以当地人为主，二楼要多收取三元，所以有些空位，偶刚好坐到了第一排，靠门，进出观景方便。十一点四十分鸣笛起航，斜斜的雨线中我们乘船横穿千岛湖，沿着新安江离开浙江向安徽开去。<br>pdEw}~(i2[
风雨茫茫中，千岛湖柔美婀娜，座座苍翠的小岛似乎是飘浮在碧绿的水面上。岛随船转，高高低低，远远近近，隐隐约约，无数小岛明灭在烟雨云雾之中，恰似邈邈仙山，让我也多了几分仙风道骨之感。有些小岛上有旅游团在游玩，个人以为千岛湖之美还在于湖景飘逸变幻无穷，尤其是能在雨中游湖，更是美不胜收，而那些人工包装的猴岛、蛇岛等，不看也罢，若要坐船游湖，严重推荐就坐这淳安到深渡的班轮，如果时间不够，坐到威坪即可。 <br>
Jb*G Q.ft 轮船划开平滑的湖面，顶着风雨，向新安江开去。进入新安江后，水面变得稍为狭窄些。两岸青山绵绵，倒映水中，船儿的水波漾破了水中的青山。岸边乱石处，不时可见渔人垂钓，斗笠雨衣，颇得严子陵遗风，实际上子陵钓台就在千岛湖下游不远处的富春江上。站在船头，风雨迎面而来，眺望前方远山，只见白云飘浮在半山间，天与地，云与水的界限变得模糊不清，好一幅中国古典水墨画！<br>#O-}Ggqg
轮船在新安江一路西行，拐过山凹，远处水岸山谷间不经意就朦朦胧胧浮现出一个黛瓦白墙的徽州小山村，风姿绰约，宛若仙境。这新安江自古就是徽商们通往杭州、江浙一带的必经水道，不绝于路的徽商们带着发财的憧憬，带着家中妻儿老小的期盼，从这白云深处的水村山郭前赴后继地踏上前途未卜的离乡之路。新安江两岸的徽州民谣如此感叹：”一滩高一滩，一滩高一丈。三百六十滩，新安在天上。” 如今新安江由于下游筑起了新安江水库，衍生出千岛湖，湖水倒灌，新安江已无当年之险了，但云里的村落依然遥遥在天上。而那些古老的渡口，威坪、街口、深渡、渔梁，早已不复当年樯桅林立，万商云集的盛景了，只遗下无数或辉煌或凄婉的故事让后人扼腕长叹了。<br>
;rg9GH)H$e(I 又是黄昏细雨时，徽州的深渡就在眼前了。船老大告诉我，由于下雨又兼黄金周人多，平时四个半小时的路程今天走了五个小时，我倒觉得赚了，如此美景，恨不能多坐五个小时呢。去年四月我从婺源沿徽饶古道徒步翻越浙岭进入徽州，一年后我又乘船从千岛湖、新安江水道进入徽州，又是另一种别样风情，徽州的山山水水依然让我着迷，古老、美丽的徽州我又来了！后排一对东北的母子也是兴奋之情溢于言表，一个劲地夸这条水路是超值的旅游线路，我帮他们母子拍了张合影，看着他们灿烂的笑脸，我也笑了！<br>6|\tv%gq
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re:浙江-安徽---千岛湖-新安江[im...

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re:羡慕楼主的消遥自在啊！

羡慕楼主的消遥自在啊！

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re:呵呵，谢谢熊老大的鼓励！廿八都个人以...

呵呵，谢谢熊老大的鼓励！<br>-Ye8lg/{U
廿八都个人以为确实不是很理想了。而泰顺则很值得一去。<br>d%PW:O gK w,K
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当然这只是个人观点，对每一个地方每个人的感觉可能都不一样。

re:没去过的地方都很好看，新奇。啥时候我也像...

没去过的地方都很好看，新奇。啥时候我也像江南那样呢？自由自在如风随走随停啊