查看完整版本: 秋行川西之二进甘孜

江南 2006-11-27 11:31

秋行川西之二进甘孜

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xp+M:F`/r 玛尼干戈清晨六点四十分，天刚蒙蒙亮，我就来到帕尼饭店等车回甘孜。店里坐着一个藏族老人，看到我们推门进来，热情地招呼我们坐。说实在的，要不是他递给我一张名片，我还真不敢相信这个古铜色脸庞，身材矮胖，拄着的单拐的老人家就是名闻驴界的玛尼干戈帕尼饭店老板帕尼老爹呢。很显然，帕尼饭店就是玛尼干戈的驴子集散地，许多驴子在此住宿、转车，其中还有不少洋驴。<br>2Qk2gp/aT
一直等到八点，往甘孜的车还没来。看着一拨拨的驴子们陆续开拔，连那在甘孜碰到过的洋驴，也已在帕尼老爹的介绍下坐上了开往竹庆寺的农用车，我心里颇有些郁闷。九点时，好不容易盼来一辆中巴，却又超级破旧，车顶漏水，座位几乎都在昨天让雨给打湿了，穿着厚厚藏袍的藏民坐上去，不一会儿就都站起来直嚷嚷了。我只好用一件T恤垫了一层，这才勉强能坐个安稳。<br>
n(n$cx]Hd 车子照例是挤得不得了，各种货物堆得小山似的，我被两个大铁桶挤得只能侧身坐着。一转头，后排坐着个学生模样的小姑娘，黑黑的小脸蛋上两块鲜艳的高原红，明亮清澈的双眸扑闪扑闪的，可爱极了。小姑娘十四岁，在甘孜藏文中学读高中毕业班，憧憬着明年能到成都去读大学呢。我直纳闷她十四岁怎么就高中毕业了？她说她们藏文中学只要读四年，十五岁就可以上大学啦，**年华的美好真令人羡慕！在下车时一阵忙乱，忘了叫她留个地址，因为我看到她的背包已坏了，线头散开着，拉链也拉不上，而在家里我有这么多背包什么的，可以给她寄些啊，唉，都怪我，实在遗憾。<br>
c2US$eQM(Ir 中午时分到了甘孜，又住到车站对面那家宾馆，还是老房间老价钱。午饭后天降大雨，只好窝在房间里。能在风雨高原的旅途中，靠着被窝悠闲地喝咖啡做作业，边欣赏着窗外雪山的风云变幻，小小地自我温馨了一回。<br> kRj+c~EikS
黄昏了，雨早就停了，我从车站处的十字路口往北走，直奔街道尽头的甘孜寺。穿过一个村子，就到了半山坡的甘孜寺了。寺庙建在半山坡上，顺着山坡层叠而上。一进入山门，没有汉传佛教的四大天王和笑呵呵的大肚弥勒来迎客，只有一些红色墙壁的平房。一个喇嘛正开门要进房间，看到我们后笑咪咪，虽然言语不通，他仍手口并用地告诉我们从两边的台阶都能上去。拾级而上，再不见一人，整座甘孜寺静极了，只有麻雀的呢喃。一直爬到大殿前的平地，才看到一大群藏人正坐在殿门口，原来所有的喇嘛都在殿里做法事呢。<br>
?Ku,S.?.L,B 金色的阳光从西边的雪山上照射过来，照在甘孜寺的白塔、经幡和雕梁画栋上，照在无比虔诚的男女老少身上，宗教信仰的坚贞强烈与雪域高原的壮丽秀美，在此时此刻完美地融为一体，使得我这异乡人，也不由得肃然起敬。我放轻脚步，屏声静息，坐到藏人边上，一位老人告诉我，等会儿会分圣水。<br>
c-fO%uo0e N!t8v 等了大约三十分钟，殿内的仪式结束了，两个喇嘛提着小水壶出来了，挨个向每个坐等的藏民倒圣水。我看他们只穿着袜子，这才明白为何殿外堆着这么多的拖鞋。藏民们有的带来矿泉水瓶或玻璃奶瓶接圣水，有的则直接用右手掌接水，接水后，先喝上一口，然后用手轻轻拍打额头，再用双手从头顶分向两边轻抹。当分到我时，喇嘛略有些诧异，就把圣水倒进我的手掌，圣水里有一些红色的丝状物，我觉得应该是藏红花吧。我也学藏人的样，唏溜唏溜地喝了一大口，然后轻拍额头再轻抹头发。过了一会儿，又有两个喇嘛出来，手拿一叠照片轻轻触碰每个人的头顶，也许这就是为我们摸顶吧？我轻捻手腕上的佛珠，默诵着六字真言，祈求甘孜寺的无边佛法保佑我的川西行一路平安！<br>
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5e`I\/F,b <br>zmuer@sina.com<br>二00六年十一月二十五日<br>
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江南 2006-11-27 11:32

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江南 2006-11-27 11:34

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江南 2006-11-27 11:36

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江南 2006-11-27 11:37

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江南 2006-11-27 11:38

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江南 2006-11-27 11:40

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江南 2006-11-27 11:41

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江南 2006-11-27 11:43

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江南 2006-11-27 11:44

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江南 2006-11-27 11:45

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妙语 2006-11-27 12:54

re:好地方啊~~~~

好地方啊~~~~

江南 2006-11-27 15:56

re:是好地方啊，熊老大他们去过了。

是好地方啊，熊老大他们去过了。
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